Day 22 - Jan 16

The home stretch.  With just 8 days left it's time to visit the most anticipated destination of my journey, Italia.   The old saying goes, Italy is the easiest place to fall in love with, and the hardest place to leave.  The food, the history, the Ferraris, that's what I'm looking forward to.

The train ride from Praha to Roma is very long.  I would have to connect in Wien, otherwise known as Vienna, for an overnighter.  The layover in Vienna was a painful 4 hours.  It was very cold, and with only $12 left in my checking account (until my savings transfer cleared), all I did was chill in a very smokey bar at the train station nursing the same drink.

I was looking forward to taking an overnighter.  When I took the one from Barcelona to Sevilla it was a private room I shared with my sister, but tonight it was one of those shared ones.  Should be very interesting.

And indeed it was.  The compartment was for 4 persons, reasonably spacious for sitting, but sleeping, that's another story.  I got the bottom bed, an older Italiano got the upper, and across from us an African woman. 

Before the Italian gentlemen came I got treated to a live sex show by the woman and her Austrian boyfriend.  Apparently he had to stay in Vienna, and she needed to go to Italy, and so he was dropping her off.  I was sitting right across from them, literally three feet away.  The boyfriend was making the most of the precious minutes before departure, groping her everywhere, right in front of me.  I really thought they were going to do it, but fortunately (or maybe unfortunately) they kept it to heavy petting.

Good night.

Day 21 - Jan 15

Prague is a wonderfully enchanting city.   It's perfect in size - small enough to leisurely stroll around, but large enough that you don't feel trapped.   Originally wanted to do a walking + river tour, but ended up just doing the walking tour.

For almost 5 hours we walked around Praha's many distinctive neighborhoods.  The weather was not cooperating, though.  I really think I started to get frostbite in the lower extremities because my jeans did not provide much insulation.

As it was winter, the sun went down very early, and by the time we got to Praha Castle it was dark.   Couldn't see much, but the lights...oh the lights.

Night View of Prague Castle

After the tour I grabbed a snack at one of the many street vendors.  Sausages, hamburgers, sodas - all good, all cheap.  And look closely, you can get shots of vodka if staying warm is important, which it is in the Czech winter.  The fascinating part about traveling is seeing unexpected things.  I met two Vietnamese immigrants working at one of the street vendor cafes.   Vietnamese in America, Cananda, France, England - sure - but Praha?

Fast Food, Praha Style

As beautiful, cheap, and fun as Praha was, I had to leave.  The weather was a bit too much, and Roma was calling for me.  Headed back to the hostel, packed, and was ready to call it a night, when I met two Mexicans.  They asked if I was interested in the "Praha Gost Tour," and I was.    Apparently Praha has a reputation for ghosts and other mysterious events, and this tour is suppose to show you some of the highlights.  The tour itself was nothing special.  The freezing weather didn't help.  But the tour guide was funny, and the Mexicans were cool.

I definitely want to come back to Praha when the weather is nicer.  Chill at the bridge, read some Kafka, gaze at the beautiful Czech woman...

Day 20 - Jan 14

Decision, decision.  Stay in Berlin and checkout the concentration camps, or head to Praha.  With only 10 days left in my trip I chose the latter. 

The train ride from Praha to Berlin is amazing.  The train chugs along a beautiful river pretty much from start to finish.  Incredibly scenic, tranquil.   Every so often you'll see a small town.  Should have gotten the SLR to take some photos, but I was in the company of guests.

breathtaking

Met two Dutch sisters who were on their way to do some skiing.  We were treated to an interesting lunch of goulash by a funny, warm hearted Hungarian waiter.  After lunch an Aussie couple joined us in our cabin and we had a nice chat until arrival in Praha.

Finally arrived, and it was getting dark.  The Praha metro system is cheap and easy to use, and it's on the honor system like in Berlin.  After settling in at the hostal I made my way around town. 

Prague truly lives up to its reputation for being one of the most beautiful cities in the world.  The Praha Castle at night, with the lights, is simply amazing.

 

Praha at Night

Found out that Praha loves jazz, so I checked out the Reduta Jazz Club, where Bill Clinton got down back in the days.  Firts time at a jazz club - very cool.

After the jazz club I wandered around and ended up at Eastern Europe's largest dance club - a 5 story megacomplex.  Whatever kind of music you like, they have.  And in the basement, you can surf the web - just my kind of dance.

Day 19 - Jan 13

Laundry day.  I bought a thick sweater in Paris, and while it's keeping me fairly warm, it took me forever to dry the thing in the hostal's dinky drier.

Was so happy with the Red Berlin Tour I decided to try out the Third Reich from the same company.  Wasn't as good for a few reasons.  One, the guide wasn't as interesting.  Two, since Berlin was completely destroyed during World War II there's not much to see.  There are signs of important buildings, but the buildings are long gone.  Finally, the weather was freezing.

Came back to the hostal and met a couple of Aussies that checked into the room.  We ended up grabbing a few beers and checked out a Berlin hip hop club called H2O.  The crow was very mix, not the stereotypical tall, blonde German.

They had a go-go dancer - nothing I haven't seen before.  But then she started stripping, and next thing you know she's topless.

I noticed that European bars call mixed drinks/cocktails "long drinks."  I found them to be rather weak.  Stick with the beer.

Day 18 - Jan 12

The medicine knocked me out, and I ended up waking up really late.  Almost missed the free "Red Berlin," but I managed to drag myself out of bed.   The Red Berlin tour focused on the Cold War period and how Berlin was the centerprice in the battle between the Soviets and the Americans.  The tour was one of the best tours I did on my trip - maybe because I got this photo in of me climbing the Berlin Wall.

trying to escape

Headed back to the hostel, rested, then went on a "pub crawl."  The guy who came up with this idea - genius.  You pay them 10 Euros and they take you around to some bars and clubs.  There was a group of Yanks on a study abroad program, so it felt like a small frat party.  Was fun.

On our walk back we passed by some street workers (prostitutes).   Most of the street walkers I see in the Tenderloin are nasty, but street prostitutes in Berlin are really attractive.

Day 17 - Jan 11

Amsterdam is a city like no other, and I highly recommend it as part of any European trek, even if you're a drug-free, asexual, non gambler.  But alas, if I have any hopes of seeing Eastern Europe before Italia I best depart. 

Made my way to Amsterdam Centraal to catch the early train to Berlin.  You gotta love European train stations - for around 7 Euros you can shower before your long trip.  I passed on the shower, got my ticket, and was soon asleep as we headed east to Berlin.

Got woken up by the conductor, and realized I forgot to write in my departure date on the Eurorail pass.  The conductor, a no-nonsense German, told me I'd have to pay the 50 Euro fine.   F#@king strict Germans!  But as I reaching for my money he told me it was ok, just don't forget again.  Gotta love Germans, so nice.

At the German border the police asked for my passport, which I found odd, since I wasn't asked on route from Paris to Amsterdam.

My soar throat that had started in Amsterdam was gettng bad, and I was full on coughing my now.  Quickly checked into the Heart of Gold hostel, and ventured out to find a pharmacy for some cough medicine.  Ended up meeting a very nice pharmacists who told me which cough medicines to get and how often to take.  We ended up chatting about traveling and other stuff.  Should have asked her to hang out, but my cough was so bad at this point I just wanted to go back and sleep.

Day 16 - Jan 10

Amsterdam is full of bicycles, and today I would rent one to ride around.  If there's one must do in Amsterdam, it's not the marijuana or the Red Light District, it's riding around in on a bicycle.  Metup with the fellow traveler I met last night and we rented one of the Mac Bikes.

Mac Bike

Haven't felt like such a kid in a long time.

After lunch I  somehow ended up at the local casino.  Was rather strange that I had to pay a cover charge to enter.  Ended up losing a few days spending money.  Amsterdam - sex, drug, gambling.

For dinner I metup with my friend again and had an interesting pancake pizza.  Afterwards, both  of us were tired so we ended up just grabbing some drinks at a pub.   Cheers to Amsterdam, as this would be my last night in the real Sin City.

fellow traveler

Day 15 - Jan 9

Day 15, halfway through my trek across Europe, and I'm in Amsterdam, a city where no vice is off limits. 

Amsterdam is a wonderfully unique city.  The first thing I noticed was her wonderful canals

reflections

I take that back, the first thing I noticed was how many bicycles there were.   I thought I had seen my share of bicycles in Shanghai, China, but Amsterdam is on another level.  And it wasn't just the sheer numbers, it was who used them, and how they were used.  Here, bicycles aren't just for the poor, or used as a last resort; it's a way of life.  I saw elderly ladies, in full coats, riding around.

now THIS is style

I saw men giving rides to attractive women, proving that you don't need a fancy car to get the fancy girl.

you don't need a fancy car...

After a tour on the canal bus, I made a stop at the Rijksmuseum, where I saw Rembrandt's famed Night Watchmen.  After about 20 minutes in the museum (wasn't in the mood for high culture) I wandered around and ended up on in a very posh shopping district.  My day got more interesting as they were doing a model shot for some magazine.  It's not all glamour being a mode, when you have to smell the exhaust fumes.

composure

Later that night I went out for some food and ended up at a glorified Hooters - Teaser's Bar.  The name is very appropriate.  Down the block you can get the real stuff if you wanted.  Here, it's attractive waitresses catering to businessmen and tourists.  But I did met a fellow travel there.  Half Portuguese, half Indian Canadian.  He's spending 6 months in Europe, volunteering in Portugal.

Day 14 - Jan 8

Paris is great, but I'm on an adventure, so it was time to leave the City of Love and head for the City of Sin.  No, not Las vegas, Amsterdam. 

But before Amsterdam I planned a stop in Bruxelles, otherwise known as Bruselles.  I have a special connection to Belgium.  My parents went to university in Belgium and my sister was born here as well.

I got a first class ticket on the Thalys train because my Eurorail pass was for first class (26+ years old).  Hands down the best service I've had while traveling.    The attendant even offered to call a taxi for me when we got to Bruxelles.   But even with the awesome service and auto reclining seats I wished I had purchased a second class ticket.  You get to interact with more people that way.  This would be a recurring theme for the rest of the trip.

Arrived in Bruxelles at 10/11 am, and it was dead.  Might have been because it was Sunday morning, but I'm thinking it's more due to the super gloomy weather.  I only got one decent picture of the Grand Palace

Belgium

Had some Belgian beer, walked around for a bit, and tried out some pho at a local Vietnamese restaurant.  I had enough of Belgium and got back on the train to Amsterdam.

Arrived in Amsterdam as it was getting dark.  After getting a little lost, found my way to Bob's Hostel across from the Sofitel Hotel, where I got put in a 16 bed dorm.  The houses in Amsterdam are kind of life San Francisco, narrow and lots of steep stairs.

Met a Latvian guy, and we headed out to grab a beer.   Learned from him that Dublin is a booming place - he was there working in demolition.  Then he took me around for a tour of the infamous Red Light District

I have to admit, I was expecting a lot more.  I was expecting Las Vegas without the laws, Las Vegas on stereoids, thousands of naked ladies everywhere, but it was pretty tamed.   The ladies in lingerie aside, Amsterdam at night is very charming. 

Strangers in the Night

Day 1 - Mar 5

Switching gears away from Europe, this will be Day 1 of my recent trip to Mexico City, Mexico.

I wanted to go somewhere different for a few days to take some photos, and the idea of Mexico City crossed my mind.   It's fairly close to San Francisco, about a 4 hour flight; it's relatively cheap; and it's been said to be one of the most underrated cities in the world in terms of culture, sights, etc.  Moreover, it would be a sharp contrast to Europe.

Arrived Mexico City International Airport around 5:30 PM.  The customs and immigration line was long, but easy.  I was very surprised and impressed by how modern the airport was.  I even remember seeing signs for wireless Internet access.

The hostel I was staying at had a taxi pickup service, which came in handy, because I had no idea how to get to Hostel Modena.  On the way to the hostel I saw a guy juggling in street - juggling torches fully on fire.  Couldn't get my camera out quick enough for a photo, though.

The hostel is right next to Zocalo, the main center of Mexico City, and there must have been some festival/demonstration that night, because it was PACKED.  And the street vendors, never seen so many.

Checked in the hostel, and was pretty tired, so I just stayed in and took advantage of their free dinner.  Ended up having dinner and a nice chat with a British master diver.  She's planning to do some volunteer work in South America, and was in Mexico City  for a few days.  At the age of 19 she volunteered in Africa for a while, in a place where there was no running water, no toilets.  That's hardcore.  And this is why I love traveling.  You meet some really interesting people.